STORY OF A SAFARI - JUNE 2008

4 July 2008

Jambo Y’all,

"That trip was a dream." Helen’s words on awakening from a 12-hour "recovery nap" the morning after our arrival back in Fort Walton Beach, Florida.

It was indeed a dream trip.

The few frustrations, the angst over missing payments, the "Land Rover-itis," the forty hours in airborne aluminum tubes, and the expense were well worth it.

From the Selous Game Reserve, to Ruaha and Lake Manyara National Parks, the Ngorongoro Crater, and the Serengeti National Park there were ever changing scenes and new animals to appreciate. Even the common impala and gazelle herds always offered something new worth watching.

Thanks to our guides, we were able to see the "Big Five:" buffalo, elephant, leopard, lion, and rhinoceros. While that seems to be the mark of a good trip to many visitors to the parks of Africa, there are so many other critters and birds to see and appreciate. And we saw lots and lots of them, many names which are now forgotten. Many are shy and allusive, such as the serval and kudu, while some simply lay there, staring at you from ten feet as if wondering just who you are and where you are from. Or possibly just wondering why you find them so interesting.

We both agree that, while all the parks and reserves warrant visiting, the Selous Reserve and Ruaha National Park were the best, at least this time of year. Game viewing was great and there was a ambience lost in the northern parks which have so many more visitors and vehicles. The ability to get off the roads and enjoy boat safaris in Selous make game viewing there so much more enjoyable. And it’s hard to beat an old fashioned walk in the bush, not possible in many areas.

On the other hand how could one visit Tanzania and miss the descent into the 100 square mile Ngorongoro crater and the great diversity of wildlife in that wonderful area?

We stayed at Impala Camp in Selous, Mdonya Old River Camp in Ruaha, Plantation Lodge near Lake Manyara Park/Ngorongoro and Ndutu Lodge and Olakira Tent Camp in Serengiti Park. Impala Camp/Selous and Mdonya Old RiverCamp/Ruaha were the best. But then....the mobile Olakira tent camp was a very enjoyable and unforgettable experience. Heck, it was all unforgettable!

It was a tough decision but we agree that, overall, Impala Camp in Selous was the best stay.

Food all along the way from Impala Camp to the Mbweni Ruins Hotel on Zanzibar was outstanding! It is amazing the wonderful dishes the cooks create under sometimes austere conditions. The "best dish award" goes to the Mdonya kitchen staff for their superb zucchini dish.

It was so much fun sitting out on the veranda at sunrise, watching for a hippo, elephant, jackal, or the cute Mr and Mrs Dik-Dik to saunter by, and then see someone from the kitchen walking down the path with our tray of coffee, his eyes scanning left and right for something more dangerous. Finally at Mdonya Camp Ms Helen had heard enough of the early morning game viewing reports and wanted the front tent flaps opened full width, so she could watch for the animals walking along the dry river bed - from her comfortable warm bed.

  

Adventure Camps PR brochures show animals wandering through the camp and around the dining tents, yet one wonders. Having now been there, there actually are animals in the camps, some in daylight, some at night. Some you see, most you do not. Kieran at Impala camp pointed out fresh leopard tracks very near the camp on our early morning walk with an armed park ranger. The morning after our arrival at Old Mdonya camp Nick, the camp manager, reported leopard tracks just behind the kitchen and dining tent from the previous night, but we did not actually see a leopard until our last day, in Serengeti.

On our last morning at Impala Camp there was a huge foraging hippo just off the trail from our tent to the dining deck overlooking the Rufiji River. Hippos spend the day in the water keeping their delicate skin out of the sun so you don’t see much of them, but at night they come on land and venture as far as five kilometers inland to eat all night. Thanks to the Maasai escort’s watchful eye, Marvin got two good pictures of this hippo.

At Mdonya Old River Camp in Ruaha National Park we were being escorted by the Maasai warrior back to our tent after dinner when he suddenly stopped and motioned us back. He put his ultra-powerful halogen light ahead on the largest elephant we’ve ever seen anywhere. Huge! Later Nick told us this guy is estimated to be twelve feet high at the shoulders and about 50 years old. Nick also said it’s not the old guy who’s most dangerous; the one to watch out for is the younger male which usually accompanies him as a self-appointed bodyguard. The old guy went on; fortunately we didn’t see his bodyguard and reached our tent safely.

Very soon Nick came to check on us and put his high powered light on the dry river bed just in front of our tent. There a female lion was loping off to the right and two large males were on the far bank, some fifty yards distant, discussing the night’s dinner tactics. Quite a contrast to the daytime sightings of lazy, sleeping prides. As we settled into bed, we recalled Flo Montgomery’s words in an early email: "Marvin, don’t worry about the animals and the thin tent fabric. They are not interested in you! We have never lost a client in a tent!"

In the twelve months Marvin researched and planned this surprise 50th wedding anniversary, once-in-a- lifetime trip, he kept reading recommendations of tour companies, but also about guides. "Get Naiti." Or,"Ask forJimmy, he’s awesome!" The majority of visitors probably have no choice of guides, but the guide makes or breaks a game drive.

We were fortunate to have Dennis at Impala Camp, undoubtedly not the first to nickname him "Eagle Eye." He will also be remembered as the guy who drove the Land Rover through the bush, up to observe a herd of elephants which included some young, and one very young. What a great view! We were facing the group when big Mama decided that was enough and started charging us - what Dennis called a "phase 3 attack." He turned that Land Rover around on a dime and so fast the grass must have been smoking. That charging mama could have been a super photo, except Dennis’ 180º about face left us and cameras bouncing around the back end of the Land Rover.

Our "Best Guide Award" goes to Ayub Laizer of True Africa Safari Company. Ayub (or "Hey You!" as he explained the pronunciation when he met us at the Manyara airstrip), took us through Lake Manyara National Park, the Ngorongoro Conservation area, and two days in Serengeti National Park. Personable, guides should be; knowledgeable they must be; having 20-05 distant vision is a definite plus. Put this together with a hard-earned college education, fifteen years experience, and a professorship at the Arusha Game Guide Academy, and one is in the company of our Ayub. Mrs Gibbs was insightful to recognize his potential when he was a young student in Karatu and took him under her wing.

The best safari vehicle: Of the Land Rover, Nissan and Toyota, we thought the Toyota Land Cruiser was best. Why? Because it had extra cushions on the seats! (You have to go there to fully appreciate this one)

Most memorable sight: That large female elephant charging us as guide Dennis begins an immediate exit? Or was it that huge male between us and our tent at Ruaha? Or was it.......

Most memorable sound: The super loud "boom box" roar of an unseen elephant no more than 10'-15' from us as we exited Old Mdonya camp early one morning. Even guide Vincent jumped!

Memorable relaxation: After ten days of bouncing around on game trails, breathing red dust, and wearing unwashed safari clothing, it was very nice to relax for a couple of days on Zanzibar. We retrieved our stashed bag of clean "more dressy" clothing at the airport and headed for Mbweni Ruins Hotel. We relaxed among greenery from around the world for two days, breathing fresh Indian Ocean air, and enjoying more gourmet food.
We included a tour to a spice farm and a walking tour of old Stone Town. Of course Helen ended up on Kenyatta Road, the main tourist shopping street.

At Selous Impala, we thought our separate riverbank table, with a campfire and Maasai guard was something each newcomer received. Then came Chloe and the staff carrying a birthday cake while singing happy birthday to Helen. The next evening, on the boat safari "sundowner," the guys opened a bottle of sparkling wine, for our anniversary. Chloe, our heartfelt thanks to you!

Thanks also to Michor and Joris of True Africa who put together our brief yet very rewarding four days in northern Tanzania. And, of course to the staff and other team members in each place we stayed - a great job done by all!

Regrets? A couple. Not fishing for one of those large, fighting tiger fish in the Rufiji Riveras as intended. And not adding on two or three more days of safari.

Asante sana na mambo vipi !!

Marvin and Helen Raulston, USA